Sri Ksetra

About this place

Sri Ksetra is an ancient city of the Pyu people near the Ayeyarwady River at present-day Hmawza, part of the Pyu Ancient Cities on the UNESCO list. Its name means field of glory. It was the largest Pyu settlement, its wall enclosing about 1,477 hectares, or 1,857 by a recent survey, making it the largest Southeast Asian city before Angkor. The Pyu cities span about a thousand years, from around the 2nd century BC to the mid-11th century, linking the Bronze Age with the start of the classical kingdoms. Most material here dates from the 7th to 9th centuries, though recent research suggests earlier occupation. Chinese pilgrims wrote of it, Xuanzang among them in 648. You travel red dirt tracks between old brick walls and farmland, with scattered monuments rising from them. The best known is the Bawbawgyi Stupa, a tall cylinder of dark brick topped by a small point, with a yellow band around it. Payama is a red cone, while East Zegu and Rahatha are small temples with brick roofs, sloping walls and trees. It is about 7 km from Pyay in a straight line and about 241 km from Yangon. The sites are far apart, so hire a cart or car at the entrance, and an information centre stands nearby. There is little shade, so bring a hat and water, and take off your shoes at sacred buildings. The UK Foreign Office advises against all but essential travel to this area, so read the current advice before you plan.