The coral ruins
White on the island.
Old Suakin is a historic port town on the west coast of the Red Sea in north-eastern Sudan, its buildings made of coral. It was once a byword for medieval luxury on the Red Sea, and today its old town lies in ruins. Its setting on a white island amid turquoise water gives it a sad beauty that makes you reflect on the changing fortunes of cities. Suakin was the chief port of the region until Port Sudan, about 50 km to the north, replaced it after being built in the early 20th century. It passed through Ottoman and then British rule. Its tall houses were built of coral blocks, a fragile material, which began to fall once they were abandoned, leaving ruins. The adjacent mainland town of Geyf is still lived in. On the island you see white ruins, the remains of arches and a mihrab and the front of the old bank building, some of it restored and some left as it was. A short causeway links the mainland and the island, and calm water surrounds it. Take care walking among the ruins, as the coral walls are unstable, and take nothing from them. It is about 59 km in a straight line from Port Sudan. Sources mention ferries from Suakin to Jeddah, but check their status. Winter is the best time, as summer is very hot and humid. The UK Foreign Office currently advises against all travel to Sudan, and access may not be possible, so check official guidance before making any plans.
White on the island.
A facade before the water.
An arch left among the ruins.
Red Sea State, Sudan
Port Sudan replaced it in the early 20th century, and its coral houses then began to fall.
Do not count on it, and check official guidance first, as the UK Foreign Office advises against all travel to Sudan.