The stone walls
Arches and windows among trees.
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Baltepe Fortress, or Tetovo Fortress, is a ruined stronghold and archaeological site on a hill above the city. It is not a fully restored castle but rather walls and wide views over the plain, and the short climb, calm and scenery make it a rewarding stop, especially before sunset. Building began in 1820 under Abdurrahman Pasha, who also rebuilt the Painted Mosque, on a site once occupied by a monastery of St Athanasius. It held a guest house, a dungeon, a kitchen, a dining hall and a fountain. After the pasha was summoned to Constantinople in 1843, the fortress fell into ruin. Stories tell of three escape tunnels, not all of them proven. Excavation and restoration took place from 2008 to 2012. Tall stone walls, arches and narrow windows stand among the trees, and a road runs under a large arch. Higher up are remains of towers and big vaulted rooms, and from gaps in the walls you can see Tetovo and the plain below. Nearby stands a small Church of St Athanasius, built in 1922 on old foundations. It is 1.7 km in a straight line from the Painted Mosque, and the way is uphill. You could take a taxi up and walk down. Wear suitable shoes, since the ground is uneven and paths can be overgrown, bring water and stay out of dark or crumbling rooms. There are few services at the top.
Arches and windows among trees.
Huge remains on the hill.
Over Tetovo and the plain.
Baltepe Hill, north of central Tetovo
Abdurrahman Pasha, from 1820, who also rebuilt the Painted Mosque.
It is uphill but short, and you can take a taxi on the way up.
