Topes de Collantes

About this place

Topes de Collantes is a nature reserve in the Escambray Mountains of central Cuba, sharing its name with a small tourist centre inside. It stands almost 800 metres above sea level, so the air is far cooler than on the nearby coast. It is known for waterfalls and pools in thick green forest and for walking trails, and it pairs perfectly with a visit to Trinidad. The Escambray range is shared by three central provinces, Villa Clara, Cienfuegos and Sancti Spíritus. Its highest peak is San Juan at 1,140 metres, followed by Potrerillo at 931 metres, with Topes de Collantes the third. Wet winds from the sea drop their rain here, which is what makes the damp forest and the rivers running among the rocks. Long trails descend through the forest to a waterfall pouring down a plant-covered rock wall, then to deep green pools. On the rocks, streams slide between coloured stones. Green anole lizards sit on the leaves, and hanging trumpet flowers grow among the trees. From the high points the far southern coast shows beyond waves of hills. It is about 12 km from Trinidad in a straight line, on a steep climbing road, so arrange a car and driver. Some trails are long and slippery, so bring suitable shoes and water. The weather can change fast, so carry a jacket. The UK Foreign Office advises against all but essential travel to Cuba because of fuel, power and water shortages, so read the current advice before you plan.