The seafront
A long tree-lined promenade the whole city walks every evening.
**A port city on an enclosed gulf beneath Mount Pelion** โ the gateway to the region, and best known not for a monument but for **a way of eating**. The city itself is **modern**: earthquakes in the 1950s destroyed it and it was rebuilt, and there is no old town. But its **seafront** is long and tree-lined and the whole city walks it every evening, with the gulf in front as still as a lake. โ Its most famous institution is the **tsipouradika**: small restaurants where a little bottle of **tsipouro** โ a Greek distilled spirit โ arrives **with a meze that comes automatically** without being ordered, changing with each round. โ **It is an alcoholic drink**; but **the meze system itself** is part of the city's culture. The **Volos Archaeological Museum** here is one of the most important prehistoric museums in Greece. โ The historic **Pelion railway** starts here, and ferries run to the **Sporades**.
A long tree-lined promenade the whole city walks every evening.
Among Greece's most important prehistoric collections.
Departure point of the historic narrow-gauge train up the mountain.
Volos, 38221 Magnesia, Greece
**A distinctive local eating system built around an alcoholic drink โ but half of it is still available to you.** โ **How it works**: you go into a small restaurant and order **tsipouro** โ a distilled spirit that comes in a **small bottle**. **With each bottle a plate of meze arrives free** without being ordered: small fried fish, octopus, cheese, vegetables, snails. **Each new round brings a different plate** chosen by the kitchen โ so the meal builds gradually rather than being ordered from a menu. **This is Volos's own system** and does not exist in this form in other Greek cities. โ **The problem for a Muslim traveller is obvious**: **tsipouro is alcohol**, and strong. โ **The practical solution**: **most of these places will serve the same dishes** with a soft drink, water or coffee โ **ask directly** (ยซthe meze without the tsipouroยป), and it is a normally understood and accepted request. โ **And ask what is in each dish** โ some are cooked with wine.
**Volos for logistics, the villages for beauty โ and they are half an hour to an hour apart.** โ **Volos** is **the most practical, cheapest and easiest** โ it has everything: trains, buses, ferries to the Sporades, cash machines, a hospital, supermarkets, food and accommodation at every price, and a seafront to walk in the evening. **Choose it if you have no car**, are staying one or two nights, or are taking a ferry. โ But it is **a modern city with no architectural beauty** and its beaches are not the best. โ **The Pelion villages** (**Makrinitsa**, **Vyzitsa**, **Tsagarada**, **Milies**) are **beautiful stone** with slab roofs and paved lanes, **far cooler** in summer, with astonishing views over the gulf or the sea, and guesthouses in restored traditional houses. โ But they are **dearer**, **limited in options**, **need a car** and are **very steep**. โ **The rule**: with a car and three nights or more โ **a Pelion village**; without a car, or for two nights โ **Volos**.
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