St Nicholas Church
The largest of those left.
Arbenllapashtica — CC BY 4.0 · Arbenllapashtica — CC BY 4.0 · Markussep — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Markussep — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Arbenllapashtica — CC BY 4.0
Voskopojë, or Moscopole, is a quiet mountain village west of Korçë that in the 18th century was a thriving cultural and commercial centre. It is known today for its surviving stone churches, cool air and stone houses among pine trees, and makes a good day trip from Korçë. It peaked in the mid 18th century, when it hosted the first printing house in the Ottoman Balkans outside Constantinople, along with schools and many churches. One guide says it held about 35,000 people and 24 churches, earning the nickname «Athens of the Balkans». Repeated attacks between 1769 and 1788 and shifting trade routes then emptied it, and it shrank to a small village. Five churches remain, all three-aisled stone basilicas. The largest is St Nicholas, built around 1721, with 18th-century wall paintings, and the oldest is the monastery of St John the Baptist from 1632. The churches have suffered neglect, and some were used for storage in the communist era. Most can be reached on foot from the village centre. It is 16 km in a straight line from Korçë. Some churches open only by arrangement with whoever keeps the keys, so ask in the village first. It is cooler than the plains, with snow in winter, so bring a jacket even in spring and autumn. Respect the places of worship, dress modestly and ask before taking pictures inside.
The largest of those left.
The oldest, from 1632.
Pines and cool air.
Morava mountains, west of Korçë, eastern Albania
No. Some need arrangement with the key holder, so ask in the village.
Repeated attacks between 1769 and 1788 and shifting trade routes, according to sources.