Wakhan Valley

About this place

The Wakhan is a rugged mountain land among the Pamir, Hindu Kush and Karakoram ranges, mostly in Afghanistan with a part in Gorno-Badakhshan in Tajikistan. The Tajik side follows the Panj river, with the white Hindu Kush peaks showing across the water. It is the finest part of the Pamir routes, with small green villages among bare mountains. The valley has mattered for thousands of years, as the place where western and eastern Central Asia meet and a source of major rivers. It was part of powerful Islamic states, among them the Samanid, Ghaznavid, Ghurid, Khwarazmian and Timurid empires. A trade route between Kabul and Kashgar passed through it. Yamchun Fort and other remains near the road bear witness to this past. The river widens on the plain and splits into grey and blue channels, with green fields and a few trees on its bank. Huge snow-capped mountains stand behind it, very sharp in the morning. Beyond Langar the road climbs in tight bends over brown slopes where small waterfalls run, until it reaches the high plateau. Vrang village is about 5 km from Yamchun Fort in a straight line. Stays are in simple homestays, so be courteous and carry cash. Do not go close to the river or cross it, as it is a border line. The road is mostly dirt, so take a four-wheel drive. A separate travel permit is required for the Gorno-Badakhshan region on top of a visa. The UK Foreign Office warns of security risks in the region and along the Afghan border, so read the current advice before you plan.