Fourteenth-century towers and the rampart walk
540 spiral steps around the towers and walls reward you with the best view over the Avon and the town.
William the Conqueror ordered this castle built in 1068, its stone towers have stood since the fourteenth century, and today it is operated by the company behind Legoland and Madame Tussauds. That last fact is the key to Warwick Castle: it is genuinely one of the finest medieval castles in England, but it is run as a theme park, not a hushed museum. If that idea grates, the queues and costumed actors will grate too; if you are travelling with children, this is very probably the best day of your Midlands trip. The castle sits on a bluff above the River Avon and its best moments start outside. Caesar's Tower rises about forty metres and Guy's Tower a good deal less, and the wall walk that links them gives the finest view over the town and river, but it is 540 narrow spiral steps in all, closed to wheelchairs, no place for a pushchair, and no fun for anyone who dislikes tight spaces or is short of breath. Inside are the Great Hall and armoury, state rooms dressed with waxworks recreating the Greville house party of June 1898, and the Kingmaker exhibit on the Earl of Warwick who crowned one king and unseated another during the Wars of the Roses. In season, from late March to the start of November, the Falconer's Quest sends up to sixty birds over a riverside arena twice a day, billed as the largest bird-of-prey display in Britain. The 18-metre trebuchet has its own seasonal show, though it is currently out of action with a mechanical fault, so check the day's programme before promising the children a firing. There is also the Horrible Histories Maze and a play area for toddlers, while the Castle Dungeon is a separately ticketed live-actor show that is properly frightening, with a minimum age of ten. From Stratford it is roughly 13 km north-east: twenty minutes by car on the A46 then A429, or the Stagecoach X18 bus from the town centre in about 45 to 50 minutes to Warwick bus station, a few minutes' walk from the gate. The train routes via Leamington Spa and takes longer than it deserves. If you drive, the main Stratford Road car park (£7.50) is a 10 to 20 minute uphill walk from the entrance; the closer Stables car park (£10) is small, sits beside the gate, and goes early. Adult tickets are £31 at the gate and from £26 booked online, a family ticket from £86 for four, so book ahead to save the difference and skip the ticket window in the summer holidays. The castle opens daily at 10am, closing at 4pm off-season and later in summer, so plan around the short winter daylight and do the walls before midday. Halal food is not guaranteed at the on-site cafés, though vegetarian options exist, and we found no dedicated prayer room, but the 64-acre grounds offer a quiet corner on a dry day. Give it five hours at least; anyone rushing through in two pays for a full day and sees half of it.
540 spiral steps around the towers and walls reward you with the best view over the Avon and the town.
Up to sixty birds fly twice daily from late March to early November; the 18-metre siege engine has its own show, currently paused for repairs.
Waxworks recreate the Greville house party of June 1898, and the story of the earl who crowned one king and toppled another in the Wars of the Roses.
Warwick Castle, Warwick CV34 4QU
With children, yes without hesitation: in season the shows, maze and wall walk fill five or six hours easily, and it beats anything in Stratford itself for younger visitors. If you are adults hoping for a quiet historic castle, expect to be a little disappointed; the mood is theme park and the interiors are busy with waxworks. In that case the walls and grounds are the real prize, and three hours will do. Note that the outdoor shows are seasonal and stop in winter, when the castle closes at 4pm.
Not for young children: it is a live-actor show in the dark with screams and torture scenes, the castle sets a minimum age of ten, and under-18s must be with an adult. Plenty of families come out faster than they went in. For teenagers and adults who enjoy being scared it is a good half hour; otherwise put the money towards booking the main ticket online.