At the very centre.
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A quiet old town south of Dali, once known as Menghua and counted as the birthplace of the Nanzhao kingdom; today it's the seat of Weishan County, autonomous for the Yi and the Muslim Hui, and it was named a national historic city in 1994. Its streets cross in a chessboard grid between timber and earth houses that keep the look of the Ming and Qing eras; at its exact centre stands the Xinggong tower, which the street passes through, built in 1390 and rebuilt in 1860 by one of Du Wenxiu's Muslim commanders, the old Gongchen gate tower also survives, and its North Street was listed among the national historic streets in 2011. Unlike Dali Old Town, Weishan keeps an authentic daily life away from the tourist crowds, with markets and shops selling sweets and local food; many Hui Muslims live in and around it, so halal restaurants are common. On the way, about 35 km south of Dali, lies Donglianhua, a historic Hui Muslim village whose people were known for leading caravans on the Tea Horse Road to Burma and Thailand, with a large mosque for about a thousand worshippers and grand compounds built by the Ma family of caravan traders. Wandering the town is free and open all day, per visitor guides; Donglianhua's mosque is free to enter, dressed modestly, and some guides mention a nominal village fee. Both fit into a day trip from Dali.
At the very centre.
Historic.
Authentic.
Weishan Yi and Hui Autonomous County, about 60 km south of Dali
Weishan is quieter and less crowded, with authentic daily life; many Hui Muslims live there, so halal food is common, and it's free to wander.
A historic Hui Muslim village on the way to Weishan whose people led caravans on the Tea Horse Road to Burma and Thailand, with a large mosque, historic Ma family compounds and halal restaurants.