Giraffes, zebras and ostriches grazing together on one open meadow in front of a viewing terrace.
VikiPicture — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Satirdan kahraman — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Satirdan kahraman — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Satirdan kahraman — CC BY-SA 4.0
There are no cages. Lions, giraffes, hippos and Asian elephants live in open enclosures separated from you by moats and slopes, spread over roughly 425,000 square metres at the edge of the Gediz delta north-west of İzmir. When the park opened on 30 November 2008 the metropolitan municipality moved the animals here from the old Kültürpark zoo in the city centre, Turkey's first zoo, dating from 1937, and the gap between the two is the gap between a last-century zoo and a proper wildlife park that now holds around 1,800 animals of some 130 species. The African savanna is the best of it: a broad meadow where giraffes, zebras and ostriches graze together like a still from a documentary, with a viewing terrace where children tend to plant themselves. Beyond it come the monkey islands in the lake, a humid indoor tropical hall that doubles as shelter from the midday sun, and the carnivore section with tigers, lions, bears and wolves. Feeding times are posted at the entrance and shift with the seasons, so ask at the gate and plan your loop around them, otherwise you will find the lions asleep in the shade, which is where lions spend most of the day. This is a family day out, not a quick stop. The grounds are vast and the walk between sections is long, on flat paved paths that are fine for pushchairs, but in July and August shade is scarce and the afternoon heat is punishing, so arrive at the nine o'clock opening and bring water and hats. There is a children's zoo where, under staff supervision, kids can handle goats and rabbits, plus cafés and restaurants, rest areas and parking; outside food for the animals is not allowed. Entry is 100 TL for adults, 50 for students and free under six, paid at the gate by contactless bank card or İzmirim Kart only, so do not turn up with cash. The park is closed on Mondays all year. By car it is about 40 minutes from Alsancak on the Çiğli road; by public transport take bus 777 from the Karşıyaka ferry pier or bus 751 from the Çiğli transfer centre on the İZBAN line. The İzmir Bird Paradise wetland reserve (Kuş Cenneti) is minutes away, and in spring the two make a natural pairing for one day.
Giraffes, zebras and ostriches grazing together on one open meadow in front of a viewing terrace.
Ask for them at the gate and build your loop around them; they are your best chance of seeing the lions and other carnivores on their feet rather than asleep.
A humid indoor hall of birds and lemurs, and a refuge from the midday sun in summer.
Sasalı, Çiğli district, İzmir
Yes, if you have children and give it half a day; it is one of the best zoos in Turkey and far bigger than most visitors expect. Without children, or with only one day in İzmir, the 40 minutes each way is not worth spending over Kemeraltı or Ephesus.
You can, but it is hard going: little shade and long walks. Enter at nine sharp, use the tropical hall and the cafés as your midday stop, and be done before one. Spring and autumn are far better.
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