The wall on the ridges
To the horizon.
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A mountain pass on the Great Wall between the valleys of central Shanxi and the northern steppe, guarded by three fortified gatehouses; for centuries it was one of the most important choke points in Chinese history and saw many battles over the ages, and today it is a 5A scenic area. Its name means «Wild Goose Gate», after the flocks of geese that cross it on migration. The pass lies in the Yanmen mountains between the Sanggan River basin to the north and the Hutuo basin to the south, which also makes them a natural climate divide. Visitors climb through the arched stone gates and their towers, pass the old office of the pass guard, then walk the wall as it twists over yellow and green ridges, watching the towers follow one another along the crests to the horizon. Tickets cost CNY 90 from April to October and 60 in winter, half price for students and 6-18s and free for over-60s; it is open from 8 am to 6 pm in season and 8.30 am to 5 pm in winter, per visitor guides.
To the horizon.
And their towers.
Of the pass.
Yanmenguan village, Dai County, Xinzhou, about 120 km by road south of Datong, Shanxi
Choices are few at the pass, so bring food; Datong and Xinzhou have restaurants run by Hui Muslims under the halal sign serving lamb and noodles.