The red cliff
Orange and red rock above dark blue water.
Moonik โ CC BY-SA 3.0 ยท Norbert Nagel โ CC BY-SA 3.0 ยท Zde โ CC BY-SA 4.0 ยท Zde โ CC BY-SA 4.0
**Walk down and drive up** โ the best combination. The descent by the Karavolades steps is enjoyable, takes ten minutes and the views are superb. The **climb back is genuinely punishing**: 300 steps in heat with no shade, taking 20โ30 minutes and draining most people. The **paved road** reaches Ammoudi by car and taxi at a relatively small fare โ arrange a driver or call a taxi from the quay. โ **And don't ride the mules**: both alternatives above are always available, and there is no need to support a practice whose problems are documented.
The setting is โ a table at the water's edge under a red cliff at sunset is not an experience you repeat. The **food is variable and the prices high** because of the position rather than the quality. Practical advice: **book ahead** for sunset (they fill), and โ **ask the price before ordering** if you are offered fresh fish **by weight** โ the best-known bill trap in all of Greece, and it ends many evenings in shock. For the atmosphere without the bill: sit on the quay itself for nothing, or order only a drink.
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A small fishing harbour directly below **Oia**, at the foot of a cliff of **red and orange** rock rising some two hundred metres โ and the contrast between the red rock and the dark blue water is what Ammoudi is. Along the quay runs a line of **fish tavernas** with tables at the water's edge, among the best-known places to eat on Santorini โ and the priciest. Small boats lie moored in front of them. Access from Oia is by descending **about 300 steps** on a winding stone stairway called the **Karavolades**: ten minutes down and enjoyable, but the climb back is **genuinely hard**, taking 20โ30 minutes in the island's heat. โ **Mules carrying tourists** work this stairway upward โ and animal welfare organisations have repeatedly documented mistreatment, overloading and working in heat without water. **It is better not to ride them**; use the **steps** or the **paved road by car or taxi**, which is available and relatively cheap. From Ammoudi, boats run to the island of **Thirasia** opposite, and beside it is a rock young people jump from.
Orange and red rock above dark blue water.
Tables at the quay's edge with the boats in front.
Three hundred winding steps down from Oia.
Ammoudi, Oia, 84702 Santorini