Balat Quarter

About this place

Balat is a historic neighbourhood of Istanbul's old city, on the western shore of the Golden Horn between Fener and Ayvansaray, with about 11,600 residents. In recent years it has become famous for steep lanes, narrow stone houses painted in bright colours, cafes and antique shops. It falls within the Historic Areas of Istanbul on the World Heritage List since 1985. Balat became a centre of Istanbul's Jewish community in the late 15th century, when the Ottomans under Bayezid II took in those fleeing Spain. At its peak it had 18 synagogues, of which three remain in use. Armenians lived here too, along with Greeks drawn by the Ecumenical Patriarchate next door in Fener. Today's residents are mostly Muslim. Walks focus on Kiremit Caddesi and the stepped Merdivenli Yokuş, with their colourful houses. On the shore stands the Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars, known as the Iron Church, its prefabricated parts shipped from Vienna down the Danube; it reopened after restoration in 2018. The red-brick Greek college looms above Fener. The Ahrida Synagogue usually requires advance arrangement. Remember that people live here, so ask before photographing homes or residents. The quarter is 800 m from Chora in a straight line, an easy walk uphill, and 3.4 km from Sultanahmet. The T5 tram and Golden Horn ferries serve it. Come in the morning or on a weekday, as weekends are crowded, and wear shoes suited to steep cobbles.