The contemporary glass
Abstract 20th-century windows in a Gothic cathedral.
Tomás Fano — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Fedoce1 (Fernando Domínguez Cerejido) — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Fedoce1 (Fernando Domínguez Cerejido) — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Fedoce1 (Fernando Domínguez Cerejido) — CC BY-SA 4.0
**The first Gothic cathedral in Castile — with a front left unfinished since its tower collapsed in 1902** — on the main square of the old town. Building began after the city was taken in **1177**, ⚠ **under direct French Gothic influence** — **rare in Castile at that date** — ✅ **so it counts as the kingdom's first Gothic cathedral**. ⚠ **Its present front is strange**: **the bell tower collapsed in 1902** and destroyed the façade, ⚠ **and a new front was begun and never finished** — **so today you see bare stone and unresolved forms**; **and some of the city dislikes it**. ✅ **The interior is far better than the exterior**: **contemporary stained glass** of the 20th century in strong colours, ⚠ **a striking contrast with the medieval structure**. ✅ **And it holds treasures and two El Grecos.**
Abstract 20th-century windows in a Gothic cathedral.
Two paintings by him in the cathedral treasury.
Bare stone and unresolved forms after the 1902 collapse.
Plaza Mayor, 16001 Cuenca, Spain
**Go up first and walk down — the town sits on a cliff between two gorges, and the climb is the only obstacle.** ⚠ **The geography**: **old Cuenca stands on a narrow rock spur** between the **Huécar** and **Júcar** gorges, ⚠ **with the modern town below**; **and the height difference is considerable**. ✅ **⚠ Do not walk up if you can avoid it**: **a city bus (line 1 or 2) climbs from the lower town to the main square** — ✅ **cheap, and it saves a hard ascent**; **or take a taxi**. ⚠ **And do not drive up** — the lanes are narrow and parking scarce. ✅ **The order**: **start at the main square and the cathedral**, ✅ **then walk to the Hanging Houses** (minutes), ✅ **then cross the San Pablo bridge** to the far side — **where the view and the Parador are**. ✅ **Then come back and climb to the castle end** — **wall remains and a view over both gorges**. ✅ **⚠ Then walk down** through the old lanes to the lower town — **an easy descent**, **and this order makes all the walking downhill**. ⚠ **And Cuenca is cold** — about 950 m, **with a severe winter** and **a hot dry summer**. ✅ **One day is enough**, ✅ **and it works as a day trip from Madrid** (about an hour on the fast train).
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