Dye vats
A palette from above.
Uwe Brodrecht — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Holger Uwe Schmitt — CC BY-SA 4.0 · AyoubPazolini — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Guallendra — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Paul IJpelaar — CC BY 3.0 · Jorge Franganillo — CC BY 2.0 · Carlos ZGZ from Paris, France — CC0 · Nikos D. Karabelas — CC BY 4.0
The largest and one of the oldest of the three tanneries of Fes, on the bank of the Fes River near the Saffarin Madrasa; local tradition holds that it has worked since the city's founding under Idris II. Hides are still tanned here by hand as they have been for centuries. From above the site looks like a painter's palette: hundreds of round stone vats, some white with lime to clean and soften the hides, others coloured with natural dyes, where workers stand knee-deep turning the skins with their feet before they are spread to dry on the surrounding roofs. The tannery was renovated in 2016 while keeping its old layout, and it is ringed by leather shops whose terraces overlook the vats, from which visitors watch the work, and where babouche slippers, bags and jackets are sold. Viewing from the shop terraces is free, but the owners expect a purchase or a small tip. The smell is strong, so sellers often hand you a sprig of mint. Morning is best, when the vats are full of colour and work is at its peak.
A palette from above.
Hides turned by foot.
Slippers and bags.
Near Seffarine Square, on the Fes River, Fes el Bali
Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and UniversityOne of the oldest and most famous mosques of the Islamic world, founded by Fatim3 minutes walk
Al-Attarine MadrasaA small, exquisite madrasa built by the Marinid sultan Abu Said Uthman II betwee3 minutes walk
Nejjarine Museum of Wooden ArtsA historic funduq, an inn for merchants and travellers, in the heart of Fes el B5 minutes walk
Fes el Bali (Old Medina)The oldest part of Fes, founded by the Idrisids as their capital between 789 and7 minutes walk
Marinid TombsThe ruins of monumental tombs on a hill looking down on Fes el Bali from the nor11 minutes walkYou need not buy, but it is polite to leave a small tip for the terrace owner if you do not, and bargain if you do want to buy.