A baroque artillery bastion turned free public park.
Kathrin Leuenberger — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Roland zh — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Roland zh — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Roland zh — CC BY-SA 3.0
With only one day in Zurich, no — the old town, the Grossmünster, the Kunsthaus and the lakeshore come first. But it is an excellent wet-day option, or a free pause in the middle of a long walking day: an hour covers it, and the park around it is one of the quietest spots in the centre, good for sitting or a packed lunch. And since it costs nothing, there is no loss in going in for twenty minutes and leaving.
The **Rietberg** is larger and artistically richer (Asian, African and American art in the lovely Rieterpark) but it is ticketed and wants half a day. This one is smaller, free and closer to the station, and its focus is anthropological — how societies live and how their objects reached Europe — rather than masterpieces. If art is your interest and you have time: Rietberg. If time or budget is tight: this one, without hesitation.
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A scientific museum of social anthropology belonging to the University of Zurich, opened in **1889** and the third-oldest ethnographic museum in Switzerland; its holdings grew out of the collection of the Ethnographic Society founded in the city a year earlier. It keeps some **forty thousand objects** from across the continents, along with about forty thousand historical photographs and a film archive. What sets it apart is that it does not display "peoples" the way nineteenth-century museums did: it works openly on questions of **where the objects came from and their colonial context**, in collaboration with descendants of the communities they came from, and its exhibitions are temporary and focused on a single theme rather than encyclopaedic. A small, quiet museum you can read in an hour, not a march through endless halls. Half the pleasure is the setting: the building stands inside the **Old Botanical Garden**, originally the "zur Katz" artillery bastion of Zurich's baroque fortifications; it was dismantled in 1837 and a university botanical garden laid out in its place, and once the garden moved to its new site the ground became a public park, from 1976. At its centre is the octagonal **palm house** of cast iron (1877, replacing a wooden one of 1851), used now for concerts and exhibitions. Museum and park are both free, and both are minutes from the Bahnhofstrasse.
A baroque artillery bastion turned free public park.
An octagonal cast-iron dome dating from 1877.
It shows where objects came from, not just the objects.
Pelikanstrasse 40, 8001 Zurich