The dark walls
Three bastions inland.
Gagum from Lisbon, Portugal — CC BY 2.0 · Gagum from Lisbon, Portugal — CC BY 2.0 · Cayambe — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Franzfoto — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Balou46 — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Xandu — Public domain
The Royal Fort of São Filipe is a sixteenth-century fortress on a plateau 120 metres above Cidade Velha on Santiago. Its dark stone walls look over the town, the ocean and steep cliffs. It is part of the World Heritage site and the clearest place to understand the setting of the whole old city. It was built under Philip I of Portugal between 1587 and 1593, soon after Francis Drake's raid of 1585. It completed a defence system that included six smaller coastal forts and a wall by the port. The military engineers João Nunes and Filippo Terzi designed it, using stone brought from Portugal. It was restored between 1999 and 2001. It has three bastions toward the interior, with steep cliffs protecting north and south and the way in from the west. You pass an arched stone gate into a wide court with a domed brick cistern and the foundations of the governor's house, garrison, prison and the Chapel of São Gonçalo. From the walls you see the green valley, the town and the ocean. The fort is 9.7 km in a straight line west of Praia, reached by a road from above or a path up from town. It is almost without shade, so bring a hat and water, and expect strong wind. Stay back from the edges of walls and cliffs and watch children. The ground is uneven, so wear closed shoes, and ask about fees and hours at the entrance.
Three bastions inland.
Brick in the middle of the court.
Green and ocean from above.
Plateau above central Cidade Velha, Santiago island
To strengthen defences after Francis Drake's raid of 1585.
Yes, by a path up from town, though it is hot by day.
