Flags captured by Lucerne's soldiers painted above the arcades.
Dennis G. Jarvis — CC BY-SA 2.0 · MHM55 — CC BY-SA 4.0 · MHM55 — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Andrew Bossi — CC BY-SA 2.5
If you only have time for one, choose the **Jesuit church** on the riverbank: its white-and-pink baroque interior is far more striking, and it is easier both to reach and to catch open. But the Franciscan church is nearly four centuries older, its banner wall has no equal in the city, and it is a five-minute walk away — so if you have a full day in Lucerne, see both. Each is free.
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On a quiet little square a few metres from the crush of the old town stands **one of the oldest churches in Lucerne, and the oldest of its friary churches**: built by Franciscan friars between 1270 and 1280, with the friary in use until 1838. From outside it is an austere Gothic box with almost no ornament — deliberately so, the Franciscans being an order of poverty — and inside it is a complete surprise: baroque and rococo layers added over the centuries on top of the Gothic bones. Its best-known feature is the **carved wooden pulpit** dated 1628, described as the most richly ornamented wooden pulpit in Switzerland. But the more interesting thing for a visitor is another: a row of **banners painted on the wall** above the arcades, depicting flags taken by Lucerne's soldiers in their medieval wars — the most famous attributed to the Battle of Sempach in 1386. A whole wall of painted war spoils inside a church: a strange and very local sight. The visit is short — twenty minutes is enough — and free. But **its hours are broken up** and it closes over the middle of the day, which is why most people miss it. Best plan: call in during the morning on your way from the station into the old town, before the Chapel Bridge and the Lion Monument. The café-lined square outside is one of the calmest corners in Lucerne.
Flags captured by Lucerne's soldiers painted above the arcades.
Early baroque woodwork dated 1628.
A café corner metres away from the bridge crowds.
Franziskanerplatz, 6003 Lucerne