The asymmetric lanes
Straight east and curved west, for purely climatic reasons.
CC BY-SA 3.0 · lienyuan lee — CC BY 3.0 · lienyuan lee — CC BY 3.0 · lienyuan lee — CC BY 3.0
A walled town on a small peninsula projecting into the channel between the island and the mainland, and one of the most complete medieval towns surviving on the Adriatic. What distinguishes it is not beauty but **the plan**. The town is laid out as a **herringbone**: one main street running the length of the peninsula, with short lanes branching off both sides. The detail that makes it exceptional is that the lanes are **not symmetrical**: On the **eastern** side the lanes are **straight** — open to the sea, to draw the north-westerly summer breeze into the heart of the town. On the **western** side the lanes are **curved** — to break the winter **bora** coming from the north-east and stop it driving through. This is a plan **designed for climate** in the thirteenth century, and it is taught in urban architecture courses. The Venetian walls still stand for most of their circuit with their round towers, and the whole town can be crossed on foot in **twenty minutes** — though the lanes are many and it is easy to spend an hour in them without noticing. Note: the lanes are **stepped and steep**, paved in smooth stone that is slippery in rain.
Straight east and curved west, for purely climatic reasons.
Standing for most of their circuit with round towers around the peninsula.
Running the length of the peninsula, with the whole town branching from it.
Old town, Korčula
**Korčula is quieter, cheaper and more historic; Hvar is sunnier, louder and dearer.** Korčula town is **walled and complete**, like a small Dubrovnik, and its Venetian history is legible in every lane. Hvar''s town is larger with a far bigger square, but its nightlife is loud in July and August and its prices among the highest in Croatia. For swimming, Hvar wins clearly (the Pakleni Islands are right offshore). For wine, Korčula wins clearly (Pošip and Grk). For families and for sleeping, Korčula. ⚠ Access: Hvar is **easier** — an hour by catamaran from Split. Korčula is **further** — about three hours from Split, though very close to Dubrovnik via the Pelješac peninsula.
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