The steam tugs
Working boats their owners restore themselves.
Karlheinz Klingbeil — CC BY 4.0 · karlheinz klingbeil — CC BY 4.0 · karlheinz klingbeil — CC BY 4.0 · Andrzej Otrębski — CC BY-SA 4.0
The most enjoyable way is public harbour ferry 62 from the Landungsbrucken — part of the ordinary transport network on a normal ticket rather than a priced sightseeing cruise, and it crosses the full harbour panorama. Get off at Neumuhlen, walk west along the beach toward Oevelgonne, then continue up to Jenischpark if you want a full day west of the city.
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The Oevelgonne Museum Harbour is not a museum in the institutional sense but a quay where some twenty preserved historic vessels lie: steam tugs, fishing boats, pilot vessels and sailing craft, most from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The idea began in 1976 as an initiative by enthusiasts who came together to save boats destined for scrapping, and a volunteer association still runs it — the owners themselves restore and operate the vessels. That makes it a living place rather than a display: you see maintenance underway and smell tar and oil. The quay is free and open to walk along at any hour, and some vessels open to visitors at set times. It sits on the Elbe's sand beach in the Oevelgonne district — and that beach is itself among Hamburg residents' favourite places: you sit on the sand and watch giant container ships pass metres away.
Working boats their owners restore themselves.
Sand to sit on as container ships pass.
Neumuhlen, 22763 Hamburg