Al-Mutanabbi Street

About this place

Al-Mutanabbi Street is a narrow pedestrian street at the heart of old Baghdad near the Tigris, and the historic centre of the city's book trade. It is named after the classical poet al-Mutanabbi. Its pavements are full of book stalls and bookshops, drawing writers, students, artists and visitors, and it is the best-known cultural address in Iraq. Over the decades the street became a symbol of Baghdad's intellectual life, and its old facades keep the city's character, with iron balconies and brick walls. Its frontages have been renewed and now look tidy and brightly coloured. At the end near the river stands a large statue of the poet, close to the Ottoman Qishla building and its clock tower. You walk among books spread on the ground in Arabic and other languages, from novels to old volumes, alongside small galleries and cafes. Do not miss Shabandar Cafe, the historic meeting place of the street's regulars. Then carry on to the bank of the Tigris, where the poet's statue looks out and boats pass by. The street is at its best on Friday morning, when the book market is in full swing, though it gets crowded, so start early. The Mustansiriya Madrasa is about 300 m in a straight line, and the Abbasid Palace about 500 m. Ask before photographing people. The UK Foreign Office currently advises against all but essential travel to this area, so check official guidance before planning.