Rua da Felicidade

About this place

Rua da Felicidade, the «Street of Happiness», is an old pedestrian street in central Macau, about 500 m west of Senado Square. Two-storey shophouses with red shutters and white walls line it on both sides, and it is now among the city's best known food and shopping streets, with foot traffic that hardly stops. It was once the city's main entertainment quarter, with pleasure houses and opium, which is where some sources say its ironic name came from. Its look changed completely in restoration, as its main colours had been grey, black and green before being painted red. The opening scene of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, set in Shanghai, was filmed here. You see a narrow paved lane under green and red balconies, traditional Chinese signs and lanterns. Shops sell almond cakes and dried meat, glass jars of snacks line the counters and cooking smells drift by. The street also holds Macau's oldest guesthouse, the SanVa Hotel, running since the 1930s behind its red front, and at night the street glows with warm colours. The street is open at all hours and close to Senado Square, so it fits easily into a walk. Evening is prettier but more crowded, so keep your bag close. Check food before buying if you need halal, as many shops sell non-halal meat. Wear comfortable shoes, and watch for motorcycles in the side lanes.