Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

About this place

The best thing here is outside. In front of the main building a stepped grass mound coils like a green serpent and mirrors itself in three crescent pools: Charles Jencks's Landform (2002), technically a work of art to be contemplated from the terrace, in practice a playground that Edinburgh's children annexed years ago while their parents sit on the steps. Behind them, spelt out in neon across the facade, Martin Creed's line «Everything is going to be alright» is worth the photo on its own. Scotland's national collection of modern and contemporary art fills two neoclassical buildings facing each other across Belford Road, both built in the nineteenth century, one as a charity school for fatherless children and the other as an orphanage. Modern One holds the permanent hits: Matisse and Picasso, the Scottish Colourists in their loud palettes, post-war British and contemporary work, and the celebrated Surrealism collection, currently shown here for free. Modern Two across the road hosts the paid temporary shows (a big Gwen John retrospective runs to January 2027 at roughly £3.50–£14), but its two free permanent fixtures are the fun part: a recreation of sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi's chaotic studio, plaster casts and toys included (opened on request, so ask at the desk), and his 7.3-metre Vulcan, which stands in the middle of the cafe like a guest who will not leave. The grounds hold Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth and Nathan Coley. Admission is free, the galleries open daily 10:00–17:00, and nothing needs booking except the temporary exhibitions in summer or at weekends. Honestly, if modern art is not your thing the interiors are skippable; the gardens and the walk in are the prize. The nicest approach is twenty minutes on foot from Princes Street through Dean Village and along the Water of Leith to the steps up to the gallery, or bus 13 from the centre. Both buildings have car parks at about £5 for four hours. Pushchairs manage the rooms and the paths easily; the riverside route has stairs. Summer brings free family activities and sculpture trails for small children, and the Modern One cafe opens its terrace onto the garden. In winter it is dark by closing time and the mound turns muddy, but the rooms are near-empty and make a comfortable refuge from the rain. One caveat: some permanent-collection rooms close between exhibitions, so check what is on before making the trip specifically for the Picasso.