The mud walls
Towers on the hill.
EFarid — CC BY-SA 4.0 · EFarid — CC BY-SA 4.0 · EFarid — CC BY-SA 4.0 · EFarid — CC BY-SA 4.0 · EFarid — CC BY-SA 4.0
Shahr-e Gholghola is an archaeological site near the town of Bamiyan in central Afghanistan, the remains of an old fortified city on a lone hill. It is also known as the City of Screams and the City of Woe. Its mud towers and walls rise over the valley, looking from afar like a small mountain carved by people. It is among the finest viewpoints in Bamiyan, and it sees very few visitors even in the best of times. The Siege of Bamyan took place here in 1221, during the Mongol pursuit of Jalal al-Din Mangburni, last ruler of the Khwarazmian Empire. Mutukan, favourite grandson of Genghis Khan, was killed in the fighting by an arrow from the walls, and Genghis then ordered the killing of the people of the city and region, the source of its sad name. The city never came back to life. You climb winding earth paths among mud walls, ruined towers, small stairways and vaults. The higher you go the wider the view, until you see the green valley and, on the far cliff, the Niches of Bamiyan. The ground is fragile and worn, so keep to the paths and take care coming down, above all after rain, and do not climb the walls. It is about 2 km in a straight line from the Niches of Bamiyan, and you can combine them in half a day. Evenings are cold at this height, so bring a warm layer. The finest light comes just before sunset, with autumn colours. The UK Foreign Office currently advises against all travel to Afghanistan, and access may not be possible, so check official guidance before making any plans.
Towers on the hill.
Narrow old passages.
The niches from afar.
Near Bamiyan town, Bamyan Province, Afghanistan
After the siege of 1221 Genghis Khan ordered its people killed, so it became known as the City of Woe.
Do not count on it, and check official guidance first, as the UK Foreign Office advises against all travel to Afghanistan.
