Talat Noi

About this place

An old riverside quarter south of Chinatown, one of Bangkok's oldest neighbourhoods, settled from the eighteenth century by Chinese, Portuguese and other traders near the old port. Its narrow lanes mix old Chinese houses, small family shrines, car-parts shops stacked to the ceiling, and modern murals on the walls. Its landmarks include the Holy Rosary Church, Bangkok's oldest church, founded by the Portuguese in 1787 and rebuilt in Gothic style in the late nineteenth century; So Heng Tai, a wooden Chinese mansion around a courtyard with a pool; and colourful Chinese shrines such as Joss Kong. On the riverbank are small cafés in old warehouses and the River City art and antiques centre. Wandering is free. It is a real residential and working neighbourhood, so respect people's homes and ask before photographing residents. The church and shrines are open by day and expect modest dress. Many small restaurants are Chinese and serve pork, so ask before ordering. Walk it in the morning or late afternoon; reach it by Chao Phraya river boat to Si Phraya pier, or on foot from the Chinatown metro station.