Wat Phra Phai Luang

About this place

Sukhothai's second most important temple after Wat Mahathat, and older, in the northern zone ringed by moats. It was probably the city's centre before the kingdom arose, under Khmer influence, which is why its highlight is a Khmer laterite tower, the one survivor of three that stood here, still bearing remains of fine stucco carving. In front of the tower stretch broad ruins of prayer halls and a large, partly collapsed stupa surrounded by Buddha images in different postures, seated, standing, walking and reclining, some worn by the centuries. The site is shaded by trees and far calmer than the central zone. Sukhothai was the capital of the first Thai kingdom in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, where the Thai alphabet took shape and a distinctive style of Buddha images flourished, with flowing bodies and serene smiles; its ruins are today part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site listed in 1991. The temple is in the northern zone with Wat Si Chum, and the zone fee for foreigners is about one hundred baht. The midday heat is fierce from March to May, so come early in the morning or late afternoon, with a hat and water. Combine it with nearby Wat Si Chum in one bicycle loop; half an hour to an hour is enough. It is ideal for lovers of photography and quiet.