The gold mosaics
Whole walls of gleaming mosaic scenes — an interior like no other in France.
Dennis G. Jarvis — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Unknown authorUnknown author — Public domain · Unknown authorUnknown author — Public domain · Unknown authorUnknown author — Public domain
The Basilica of Fourvière crowns Lyon's white hill and shows from the whole city — Lyonnais call it 'the upside-down elephant' for its four towers, with affection rather than mockery. It was built in the late nineteenth century to honour a vow the city made if spared the Prussian invasion; it was spared. The exterior is imposing, the interior astonishing: not a centimetre undecorated — gold mosaics covering the walls in vast scenes, marble and stained glass in a visual festival that divides visitors and dazzles most. Beneath lies an entire lower church in a calmer, different manner. Getting up is half the pleasure: the funicular railway — locals call it 'the string' — climbs from the old town in minutes, and the terrace before the basilica spreads all Lyon below: the two rivers, the red roofs, the modern district's tower, and in clear air, Mont Blanc.
Whole walls of gleaming mosaic scenes — an interior like no other in France.
City and rivers below, Mont Blanc on the clear horizon.
The hill railway from the old town — authentically Lyonnais since 1900.
A whole church beneath the church — calmer for anyone the ornament overwhelms.
8 Place de Fourvière, 69005 Lyon
Fourvière Museum of Sacred ArtA small museum within the complex of the basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, sh1 minute walk4.1
Fourvière Metallic TowerA metal tower on the Fourvière hill beside the basilica, built at the end of the2 minutes walk3.7
Lugdunum MuseumLugdunum is Roman Lyon's memory: a museum buried in the Fourvière hill beside th4 minutes walk4.7
Roman Theatres of FourvièreBefore Lyon was French it was Lugdunum — capital of Roman Gaul and birthplace of5 minutes walk4.6
Musée Miniature et CinémaIn one of Vieux Lyon's finest houses — the Renaissance Maison des Avocats — live5 minutes walk4.8Funicular F2 from Vieux Lyon station straight to the basilica in two minutes — on an ordinary transit ticket. On foot, the rose-garden path up is pretty but stiff in summer (about 20 minutes). Best: ride up, walk down through the gardens into old Lyon.
In 1870 the Prussians advanced on France, and Lyon's bishops and notables vowed a church to the Virgin if the city was spared — the advance stopped short of it. The basilica honours that vow, which is why Lyonnais consider it 'their' church in a personal sense beyond tourism.
The two Roman theatres are five minutes' walk — Lyon was Roman Gaul's capital — then descend through the gardens to Vieux Lyon for lunch. One hill, three eras.