The gold mosaics
Whole walls of gleaming mosaic scenes — an interior like no other in France.
Dennis G. Jarvis — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Unknown authorUnknown author — Public domain · Unknown authorUnknown author — Public domain · Unknown authorUnknown author — Public domain
Funicular F2 from Vieux Lyon station straight to the basilica in two minutes — on an ordinary transit ticket. On foot, the rose-garden path up is pretty but stiff in summer (about 20 minutes). Best: ride up, walk down through the gardens into old Lyon.
In 1870 the Prussians advanced on France, and Lyon's bishops and notables vowed a church to the Virgin if the city was spared — the advance stopped short of it. The basilica honours that vow, which is why Lyonnais consider it 'their' church in a personal sense beyond tourism.
The two Roman theatres are five minutes' walk — Lyon was Roman Gaul's capital — then descend through the gardens to Vieux Lyon for lunch. One hill, three eras.
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The Basilica of Fourvière crowns Lyon's white hill and shows from the whole city — Lyonnais call it 'the upside-down elephant' for its four towers, with affection rather than mockery. It was built in the late nineteenth century to honour a vow the city made if spared the Prussian invasion; it was spared. The exterior is imposing, the interior astonishing: not a centimetre undecorated — gold mosaics covering the walls in vast scenes, marble and stained glass in a visual festival that divides visitors and dazzles most. Beneath lies an entire lower church in a calmer, different manner. Getting up is half the pleasure: the funicular railway — locals call it 'the string' — climbs from the old town in minutes, and the terrace before the basilica spreads all Lyon below: the two rivers, the red roofs, the modern district's tower, and in clear air, Mont Blanc.
Whole walls of gleaming mosaic scenes — an interior like no other in France.
City and rivers below, Mont Blanc on the clear horizon.
The hill railway from the old town — authentically Lyonnais since 1900.
A whole church beneath the church — calmer for anyone the ornament overwhelms.
8 Place de Fourvière, 69005 Lyon