The full-circle view
Bay, Vesuvius, Capri, and the city a living map below.
Lalupa — CC BY 3.0 · This Photo was taken by Wolfgang Moroder. Feel free to use my photos, but please mention me as the author and send me a message. This image is not in the public domain. Please respect the copyright pr — CC BY-SA 3.0 · This Photo was taken by Wolfgang Moroder. Feel free to use my photos, but please mention me as the author and send me a message. This image is not in the public domain. Please respect the copyright pr — CC BY-SA 3.0 · This Photo was taken by Wolfgang Moroder. Feel free to use my photos, but please mention me as the author and send me a message. This image is not in the public domain. Please respect the copyright pr — CC BY-SA 3.0
Above the Vomero on Naples's highest ground crouches Castel Sant'Elmo — a huge six-pointed star of volcanic tuff the Spaniards cut into the hill's own heart in the sixteenth century, so it seems grown from rock rather than built on it. For centuries it was power's symbol over the city and the prison of its most dangerous dissidents. Your one decisive reason to ascend: Naples's greatest view, uncontested — from its vast artillery terrace a full circle: bay, Vesuvius, Capri, and the old city directly below, its streets read like a living map, Spaccanapoli a straight cut splitting the ancient fabric. Sunset here is Naples's loveliest rite. Its adjoining neighbour is the Certosa di San Martino — the sumptuous Baroque monastery with its museum and famous nativity scenes — so the summit is one double visit.
Bay, Vesuvius, Capri, and the city a living map below.
A six-point fortress cut into the hill itself, not set upon it.
The straight Greek cut splitting the city — whole only from here.
Via Tito Angelini 22, 80129 Naples
Certosa di San MartinoFrom the terrace here you get all of Naples at once: the bay, Vesuvius, and the 2 minutes walk4.4
Gallerie d'Italia – NapoliThe last painting Caravaggio finished, two months before he died, hangs today in11 minutes walk4.6
Sant'Anna dei Lombardi"The Tuscan Renaissance church of Naples": Sant'Anna dei Lombardi (Monteoliveto)12 minutes walk4.8
Galleria Umberto IThe Galleria Umberto is Naples's answer to Milan's famous arcade — built right a13 minutes walk4.5
The Bourbon TunnelThe Bourbon Tunnel was born of royal fear: after the revolutions of 1848, Ferdin13 minutes walk4.7The Montesanto, Chiaia or Centrale funicular to Vomero, then ten signposted minutes — on an ordinary transit ticket. Optimal timing: an hour before sunset for the city in two lights, descending to a Vomero dinner or back by the evening funicular.
Two functions: the castle for the pure view at token price; the Certosa for art — a gilded Baroque monastery and the world's most famous nativity-scene collection. Two hours cover the pair, the view repeating from the Certosa gardens at another angle.
The other Naples: an elegant, calm-streeted quarter of cafés and shopping — descending Via Scarlatti after sunset, gelato in hand, shows the city's middle face between the roar below and Chiaia's polish.