The horse's tail
Croatia's first rendezvous.
Nick Savchenko from Kiev, Ukraine — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Diego Delso — CC BY-SA 3.0 · NOTE: This image is a panorama of Jelačić Square in Zagreb consisting of 6 frames that were merged or stitched in Panorama Studio. As a result, this image necessarily underwent some form of digital ma — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Falk2 — CC BY-SA 3.0 de
The sacred Saturday rite: the long morning coffee through the centre's streets in full elegance — to see and be seen — from Bogovićeva to Tkalčićeva, the whole city literally attending. The visitor joins simply: a sun chair, a coffee, two guiltless hours — understanding Zagreb begins at its café, not its museums.
Sign in to write your review of this place.
No reviews yet — be the first.
Jelačić Square is Croatia's point zero: every rendezvous is under the horse's tail — Ban Jelačić's equestrian statue (dismantled and hidden by the communists forty years in a cellar, returned 1990 in triumph) — the square a two-century architecture gallery in the round, blue trams crossing it as artery, the iron Manchester clock the lovers' second meeting post. A stair above it, Dolac — Zagreb's stomach: the open market under crimson-red parasols (the city's second icon) where the kumice — the neighbouring farm women — sell greens, cheese and honey every morning, the Market Aunt statue with basket on head honouring them — fish and meat below, flowers in the side square. Between them Tkalčićeva, the unbroken café street: coloured timber houses over a buried stream become Croatia's longest coffee sitting — the trio (square, market, street) being all of pulsing lower Zagreb, and the morning-coffee-then-market rule the locals' sacred Sunday rite.
Croatia's first rendezvous.
Dolac's red icon.
Croatia's longest coffee sitting.
Trg bana Jelačića, 10000 Zagreb