The view from the far bank
The whole row on the water — the intended vantage.
A row of seventeenth to nineteenth-century **fishermen''s houses** standing directly on the bank of the Regnitz, packed together with their fronts dropping to the water without a quay. The name is a late, touristic one, and the comparison with Venice is superficial — there are no canals here and no gondolas. The one thing they share is **building right at the water''s edge**. But the quarter is **entirely genuine**: these are real fishermen''s houses, lived in and worked from for centuries, each with a **small stair down to the water** where boats were tied, and wooden balconies and narrow gardens between house and river. Bamberg was historically a **river-fishing town**, and its fishermen''s guild has records going back to the Middle Ages. Note: the quarter is **seen from the opposite bank, not from inside it**: the houses are private homes, and the intended view is from the **far bank** or from the Markus bridge. Do not go into the lanes looking for the photograph — it is not there. Note: in summer **tourist boats** run past it on the river.
The whole row on the water — the intended vantage.
Dropping from each house to the river, still in place.
And narrow gardens between the houses and the water.
Am Leinritt, Bamberg
The city divides into two levels and the plan follows that. Start **below**, in the burghers'' town: the **Old Town Hall** on its island and the two bridges around it, then **Little Venice** from the opposite bank, then the market square. Then **climb to the hills**: the **cathedral** and its Horseman, the **New Residence** with its rose garden looking out over the whole city — the best view in Bamberg, and free — and the timbered **Old Court**. In the afternoon: the **Altenburg** (a hilltop castle, 20 minutes by bus) or the **market gardeners'' quarter**, whose cultivated fields inside the city are a core part of the UNESCO listing and which everyone misses. ⚠ The city is **hilly**; the climb to the cathedral is a little demanding. ⚠ One day is enough, two is better.
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