Ceramic, stained glass and iron — modernisme's food cathedral.
Sjaak Kempe from Groningen, The Netherlands — CC BY 2.0 · FriedrichFrisch — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Bybbisch94, Christian Gebhardt — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Bybbisch94, Christian Gebhardt — CC BY-SA 4.0
Deliberately less — it stayed a shopping market first, which is its virtue: few counters inside, the plates around it in the square's cafés. For easy halal grazing: fruit, juices, nuts, cheese and olives are whole worlds — Mediterranean fish cooked in the neighbouring restaurants.
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Valencia's Central Market is near-inarguably Europe's most beautiful food market building: a 1928 modernista palace of ceramic domes, stained glass, slender iron and eight thousand metres of light — a genuine cathedral of food where some three hundred stallholders work every morning. This is the locals' market before the tourists': the famous Valencian huerta vegetables, orange mountains as the city's emblem, Mediterranean fish, rice in the varieties of paella's homeland, spices, nuts and sweets — at true prices under authentic vendors' cries. The golden rule: mornings only (closing at three, shut Sundays), a fresh orange juice in hand the unwritten entry condition. Facing it: the UNESCO Silk Lonja and the Santos Juanes church — old Valencia's golden triangle within fifty metres.
Ceramic, stained glass and iron — modernisme's food cathedral.
Valencia's emblem heaped high — the juice its entry rite.
The rice country's varieties at their source.
Plaça de la Ciutat de Bruges, 46001 Valencia