The five minarets
Brick and traces of tile.
Marius Arnesen from Oslo, Norway — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Marius Arnesen from Oslo, Norway — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Marius Arnesen from Oslo, Norway — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Marius Arnesen from Oslo, Norway — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Marius Arnesen from Oslo, Norway — CC BY-SA 2.0
The Musalla Complex is a former Islamic religious complex in Herat, also known as the Musalla of Gawhar Shad, with examples of Timurid architecture. Much of this 15th-century complex is in ruins today, and what stands needs restoration. Its five leaning minarets rise from open ground and make a strange and moving scene unlike anywhere else in the city. Building began in 1417 under Queen Gawharshad, chief consort of the Timurid ruler Shah Rukh. The ruins include the five minarets, the mausoleum of Mir Ali Sher Navai, the mausoleum of Gawhar Shad, the remains of her mosque and madrasa and the madrasa and mausoleum complex of Sultan Husayn Bayqara. These buildings were once among the greatest achievements of Timurid architecture. You see tall leaning brick minarets, still bearing traces of blue tile. A short way off is the mausoleum of Gawhar Shad with its ribbed blue dome, and inside a very beautiful ceiling in gold and lapis patterns, if you find someone to open the door. The minarets lean and are fragile, so stay as far back as the fencing asks. It is about 1.4 km in a straight line from the Citadel of Herat and about 2 km from the Friday Mosque, and visitors reach it by taxi. The ground is exposed, and the finest light comes early in the morning and just before sunset. The UK Foreign Office currently advises against all travel to Afghanistan, and access may not be possible, so check official guidance before making any plans.
Brick and traces of tile.
Ribbed and blue.
Gold and lapis.
North of the old city, Herat, Afghanistan
The chief consort of the Timurid Shah Rukh, under whom the complex began in 1417.
Do not count on it, and check official guidance first, as the UK Foreign Office advises against all travel to Afghanistan.
