Tamu Kianggeh

About this place

Tamu Kianggeh is a traditional local market on the bank of the Kianggeh River in the capital, selling vegetables, fruit, fish, meat and local foods. It has existed since the 1960s and is believed to be the oldest market in the country, giving a daily picture of Brunei well away from palaces and grand mosques. Queen Elizabeth II visited it on her state visit to Brunei in 1998, and it featured in a 2011 TV documentary by the chef Antony Worrall Thompson. The present complex was built in 2016, covering 4,450 square metres in eight buildings, with hundreds of stalls. The name Kianggeh may come from a Chinese word for river, though this is not confirmed. You walk among heaps of colourful tropical fruit, such as tampoi and rambutan, along with green coconuts and durian. Watermelons, bananas and vegetables line up under blue awnings, and vendors call out near juice and snack stalls. On the other side are a canal and a small bridge, where boats may pass and a monkey may sit on the rail. It lies near the centre of the capital, within walking distance of Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, so it is an easy stop. Morning is the best time, when produce is fresh. Try the local fruit, as food is generally halal. Ask before photographing vendors, and carry small change. Do not feed the monkeys, and watch for wet ground between the stalls.