The Marine Venus
Aphrodite wringing her hair โ Durrell's tenderness.
Szilas โ Public domain ยท George Chernilevsky โ CC BY 4.0 ยท George Chernilevsky โ CC BY 4.0 ยท Jebulon โ CC0
Early morning: the street empty on the way up, the palace at opening, then the museum โ then deep-town lunch. Heat and cruise ships own the noon: you will have beaten both to the big three, keeping lanes and moat for the afternoon.
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Rhodes' museum is a building before a collection: the Knights' New Hospital (1489) โ the order's original reason-for-being in complete stone: the great Ward with its arcades where the knights ranked free sickbeds for every creed, and a central court whose stone lion guards heaped siege balls history piled. Its star is the crouching Rhodian Aphrodite wringing her marble hair (1st BC) โ the tenderness Lawrence Durrell renamed the Marine Venus โ beside knights' tombstones in their tongues, centuries of Kamiros and Ialysos pottery, and the sun-crowned head of Helios. Its last secret is the terraced back garden of pebble mosaic and lemon trees โ a rest the hurried never find. It is the town trio's inevitable third with palace and street โ the combo gathering all.
Aphrodite wringing her hair โ Durrell's tenderness.
Every creed's sickbeds beneath 1489 arcades.
Lemon and mosaic โ the quiet back secret.
Museum Square, 85100 Rhodes