The fifth-century mosaics
Rome's oldest narrative Christian mosaics, directly above the columns — look up between the arches; most visitors never do.
NikonZ7II — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Alvesgaspar — CC BY-SA 4.0 · This Photo was taken by Wolfgang Moroder. Feel free to use my photos, but please mention me as the author and send me a message. This image is not in the public domain. Please respect the copyright pr — CC BY-SA 3.0 · CC BY-SA 4.0
One of Rome's four great papal basilicas, and the oldest church in the West dedicated to the Virgin Mary to survive in its original form since the fifth century. Its founding legend is among Rome's loveliest: snow fell in August 358 on the Esquiline Hill, tracing the church's outline — and to this day the miracle is marked each 5 August by white petals released from the ceiling. Inside is a lesson in historical layers: a colonnade of fifth-century Roman columns, above them original mosaics of the same age telling the Old Testament, a gilded wooden ceiling said to use the first gold brought from the Americas, and a twelfth-century Cosmatesque floor of interlocking geometry. Beneath the altar, a reliquary is said to hold fragments of the manger of Bethlehem. Entry is free like Rome's other great basilicas, and crowds are far lighter than at St Peter's. It sits close to Termini, the central station — an ideal stop on a first or last day.
Rome's oldest narrative Christian mosaics, directly above the columns — look up between the arches; most visitors never do.
Gold said to be the first brought to Europe from the Americas, gifted by Spain's monarchs to the pope — world history in a single ceiling.
On 5 August white petals fall from the ceiling to re-enact the founding legend — the loveliest annual rite in Rome's churches.
Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore, Rome
Palazzo Massimo alle TermeThe best museum in Rome that nobody knows. A branch of the National Roman Museum6 minutes walk4.5
Baths of DiocletianThe largest bath complex the Romans ever built: three thousand bathers at once, 7 minutes walk4.6
Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei MartiriA church built inside the central hall of the Baths of Diocletian — the largest 8 minutes walk4.8
The Borgia Stair and the Vicus SceleratusA vaulted stone stair in the Monti district that passes beneath the old Borgia f8 minutes walk4.2
Fountain of Piazza della Madonna dei MontiA late sixteenth-century fountain in a small square at the heart of Rome's Monti9 minutes walk4.6Looking for halal food near Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore? There are several options nearby, from Moroccan and Indian kitchens to quick casual spots and places with a view. Confirm the halal status and opening hours before you go — these can change.
Hotel BaroccoA four-star hotel looking directly onto Piazza Barberini and Bernini's Triton Fo14 minutes walk · $$$$4.9The St. Regis RomeRome's oldest grand hotel and its most historic: opened in January 1894 as the G10 minutes walk · $$$$4.8St Peter's in the Vatican, Santa Maria Maggiore, St John Lateran (Rome's actual cathedral) and St Paul Outside the Walls. Visiting all four is an old pilgrim tradition; three are free and relatively close.
Forty minutes covers the interior and mosaics; add half an hour for the museum or the upper loggia to see the façade mosaics close up.