The Baie des Anges view
The full curve of the promenade over turquoise sea — Nice's defining photograph.
CC BY-SA 3.0 · Unknown authorUnknown author — Public domain · Unknown authorUnknown author — Public domain · Victor Grigas — CC BY-SA 4.0
Castle Hill is the best place to begin Nice. From the top you get, in one sweep, the view that made the city famous: the Baie des Anges and its turquoise water on one side, the colourful old port on the other, and the red rooftops of the old town directly below. The castle itself is long gone — the French demolished it three centuries ago — but the hill became a large park of ruins, a surprising artificial waterfall near the summit, playgrounds, and plenty of shaded corners. It is entirely free. Getting up is part of the pleasure: stairs from the edge of the old town, a free lift near the seafront, or the little tourist train. Come down the far side towards the port and you will have seen both faces of Nice in one circuit.
The full curve of the promenade over turquoise sea — Nice's defining photograph.
A nineteenth-century artificial cascade near the top — a cool surprise on a hot day.
The far side looks down on the old port, its boats and coloured façades.
Big playgrounds and plenty of shade — a family outing, not just a photo stop.
Montée Montfort, 06300 Nice
The Church of Saint James the GreaterA Jesuit church in old Nice, built in the seventeenth century and known locally 3 minutes walk4.7
Castle Hill CemeteryOn the summit of the castle hill, where Nice's citadel stood before Louis XIV de3 minutes walk4.9
The Church of the AnnunciationThe oldest church in old Nice, known among residents as Santa Rita after Saint R3 minutes walk4.9
Palais LascarisThe Palais Lascaris hides in the narrowest lanes of old Nice: a façade that prom3 minutes walk4.5
Old NiceOld Nice is the maze between the castle hill and the sea: a dense network of nar4 minutes walkThe free lift at the end of the promenade near the Bellanda tower, then walk down through the park to the old town or the port. The stairs from the old town are pretty but tiring in the heat. The tourist train is comfortable with small children.
Only scattered ruins — the foundations of an old church and some walls. It was demolished in 1706 on Louis XIV's orders. The value today is the park and the views, not the remains, so do not expect a standing castle.
Early morning for quiet and soft light on the port, or before sunset when the bay glows. At summer midday the climb is hot even with shade — bring water.