Ribera's stone portal
Pedro de Ribera's carved portal is the most ornate detail on a barracks complex that still stands, and it is worth a minute from the street.
Diario de Madrid — CC BY 4.0 · Diario de Madrid — CC BY 4.0 · Diario de Madrid — CC BY 4.0 · Diario de Madrid — CC BY 4.0
Conde Duque was built in the 18th century as a royal guard barracks, behind a baroque portal by Pedro de Ribera, and sat half-abandoned for decades before the city turned it into a cultural centre. It is a large complex on the western edge of Malasaña, and now signs itself Condeduque, one word, on the building and on tickets. What is on show depends on the programme when you visit. The draw is the rotating temporary exhibitions on photography, contemporary art and Madrid's history, most of them free. The building also holds the city's contemporary art museum, the historic municipal library and the newspaper archive, each with its own opening times. It is not a first-day stop; on a three-day trip the Prado, the Reina Sofia and the Royal Palace come first. It suits people staying nearby, or anyone done with the big museums who wants a quiet hour that costs nothing. Its best moment is a summer evening, when the courtyard becomes a concert stage in the city's summer season; those concerts are ticketed separately. Ventura Rodríguez (line 3) is the nearest Metro, with Noviciado (line 2) a slightly longer walk.
Pedro de Ribera's carved portal is the most ornate detail on a barracks complex that still stands, and it is worth a minute from the street.
Wide halls carry photography, contemporary art and Madrid history shows that change several times a year, usually with no entry fee.
The central courtyard turns into an open-air stage for the city's summer concert season, which is the strongest reason to come at all.
Calle del Conde Duque 11, 28015 Madrid
Edificio EspañaA heavy brick tower on a stone base dominates Plaza de España, built between 1945 minutes walk4.8
Cerralbo MuseumCerralbo is an aristocratic house near Plaza de España. The marquis built it to 7 minutes walk4.6
Temple of DebodA genuine two-thousand-year-old Egyptian temple stands on a Madrid hill — Debod,9 minutes walk4.5
Sabatini GardensFormal gardens on the north side of Madrid's Royal Palace, laid out in the neocl11 minutes walk4.7
Rose Garden, Parque del OesteA walled rose garden inside Parque del Oeste, the large park running down the we12 minutes walk4.8The exhibitions are normally free, while concerts and theatre need separate tickets bought in advance. Prices and hours change, so check the official site before you visit.
Ventura Rodríguez on line 3 is the closest stop; Noviciado on line 2 is a slightly longer walk. Plaza de España also works if you are coming over from the Royal Palace side.
No. Three or four days in Madrid will already be filled by the Prado, the Reina Sofia, the Thyssen and the Royal Palace. Come to Conde Duque if you are staying near Malasaña, or if the show running that week genuinely interests you.