Caravaggio and Raphael
Judith and Holofernes and La Fornarina in adjacent rooms — no crowd, no booking.
Sailko — CC BY 3.0 · Mallowtek — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Nicola Severino Fotografo — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Nicola Severino Fotografo — CC BY-SA 4.0
A Baroque palace built for the family of Pope Urban VIII by three of the seventeenth century's greatest architects — Maderno, then Bernini, then Borromini — and now home to the National Gallery of Ancient Art: one of Italy's most important painting collections and among its least crowded. Its most famous canvas is Caravaggio's Judith Beheading Holofernes, with his familiar bloody realism, alongside Raphael's La Fornarina and works by Titian, Holbein, Bronzino and others. But the building is half the pleasure: Bernini's grand square staircase and, facing it, Borromini's oval spiral — two opposing lessons in Baroque architecture inside one house. And the great hall's ceiling, Pietro da Cortona's Triumph of Divine Providence, is among the finest painted ceilings in Rome and a hundred times less crowded than the Sistine. The ticket usually covers Palazzo Corsini across the Tiber for several days — check when you buy.
Judith and Holofernes and La Fornarina in adjacent rooms — no crowd, no booking.
A grand square stair and an oval spiral in the same building — a direct comparison of two rival geniuses.
The Triumph of Divine Providence spans the great hall — one of Rome's finest ceilings and its calmest to see.
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, Rome
The Four FountainsFour fountains in the corners of a street crossing in Rome, set up between 1588 2 minutes walk4.4
Triton FountainBernini's fountain at the centre of Piazza Barberini, carved in 1643 for Pope Ur2 minutes walk4.7
Santa Maria della Concezione dei CappucciniSix small rooms beneath the Capuchin church, their walls and ceilings decorated 3 minutes walk4.7
Palazzo della ConsultaA late Baroque palace designed by Ferdinando Fuga and completed in 1737 for Pope6 minutes walk4.4
Trevi FountainYou hear it before you see it: water roaring down a narrow lane, and then the vi7 minutes walk4.8Looking for halal food near Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica? There are several options nearby, from Moroccan and Indian kitchens to quick casual spots and places with a view. Confirm the halal status and opening hours before you go — these can change.
Hotel BaroccoA four-star hotel looking directly onto Piazza Barberini and Bernini's Triton Fo2 minutes walk · $$$$4.9The St. Regis RomeRome's oldest grand hotel and its most historic: opened in January 1894 as the G6 minutes walk · $$$$4.8The Borghese is stronger on sculpture (Bernini) and requires a compulsory advance booking; Barberini is stronger on painting and far easier — you can walk in the same day. First visit: Borghese. If you hate booking and crowds: Barberini.