The narrow lanes
A maze under tiled roofs.
S h y numis — CC BY-SA 4.0 · S h y numis — CC BY-SA 4.0 · S h y numis — CC BY-SA 4.0 · S h y numis — CC BY-SA 4.0
One of Seoul's oldest hanok quarters, built in the 1920s when a Korean developer divided a large plot into small traditional houses for city dwellers. Artists and female singers lived here during the colonial period, and it later became known for traditional gisaeng restaurants, before falling into decline and facing demolition. In the past decade young owners rescued it, turning its narrow houses into cafés, restaurants and small shops while keeping the tiled roofs, courtyards and wooden doors. The result is a maze of very narrow lanes, barely wide enough for two people to pass, overlooked by glass windows and old-style signs. The quarter is known for cafés with glass-roofed courtyards, for desserts and pastries, and for photo studios and vintage clothing. Most of the restaurants are not halal, so ask about ingredients or stick to the cafés. Wandering is free and the quarter is small: an hour is enough. It gets very crowded at weekends and in the evening, so come before noon on a weekday. It is close to Changdeokgung Palace and Jongmyo Shrine.
A maze under tiled roofs.
Glass over old courtyards.
Old-style photo studios.
Ikseon-dong, Jongno-gu; Jongno 3-ga Station (Lines 1, 3 and 5), exit 4 or 6
Jongmyo ShrineA royal Confucian shrine built to commemorate the kings and queens of the Joseon4 minutes walk4.6
InsadongSeoul's street of traditional arts and crafts, and historically the largest mark4 minutes walk4.4
Changdeokgung Palace and Secret GardenThe best preserved of Seoul's royal palaces and a UNESCO World Heritage Site sin8 minutes walk4.5
Changgyeonggung PalaceA quiet palace adjoining Changdeokgung on its east side; the two were once known9 minutes walk4.6
Gwangjang MarketOne of the oldest and largest traditional markets in Korea, set up by Korean mer12 minutes walk4.1Ikseon-dong is a small quarter of hanok turned into cafés and shops, open all day. Bukchon is a larger residential area with restricted visiting hours.