The Piazzale Garibaldi view
All of Rome and its domes in one frame โ the city's best, free, and far quieter than any other lookout.
Lalupa โ CC BY-SA 3.0 ยท Public domain ยท Deensel โ CC BY 2.0 ยท Francesco Bini โ CC BY-SA 4.0
The Janiculum is the most comprehensive (all of Rome) and least crowded; the Pincio is closest to the centre and most romantic above Piazza del Popolo; the Aventine is quietest among orange trees. With three evenings, do all three.
Climb half an hour before sunset, watch the city turn, then walk down into Trastevere for dinner โ the best end to a Roman day, at almost no cost.
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The highest hill in central Rome (and not one of the classic seven), with the city's best comprehensive view: from Piazzale Garibaldi, Rome spreads before you with all its domes โ St Peter's to the left, the Pantheon and Vittoriano at the centre, the city's hills behind. Free, always open, and less crowded than any other viewpoint. The hill is also national memory: here Giuseppe Garibaldi and his volunteers defended the Roman Republic in 1849, and busts of a hundred comrades line the public road, each on its own plinth. A daily ritual Romans know: a cannon has been fired from the hill at exactly noon since 1847, to set the city's church clocks โ stand near it at one minute to twelve and brace for the bang. Getting there: walk up from Trastevere (20 minutes of winding steps) or take bus 115. Time it for sunset: afterwards you descend straight into Trastevere for dinner.
All of Rome and its domes in one frame โ the city's best, free, and far quieter than any other lookout.
A monumental five-arched marble faรงade on the way up โ "il Fontanone", and the opening scene of The Great Beauty.
A small circular temple in the courtyard of San Pietro in Montorio โ a complete Renaissance masterpiece the size of a room, and free.
Via Garibaldi, Janiculum Hill, Rome