The Remuh cemetery
Renaissance stones as a survivors' mosaic wall.
Zygmunt Put Zetpe0202 — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Krystyna Pruchniewska — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Krystyna Pruchniewska — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Krystyna Pruchniewska — CC BY-SA 4.0
Kazimierz is practically its centre: certified Middle Eastern, Turkish and Indian tables cluster there and around the old town — and Polish cooking itself is a relative friend (pierogi in cheese, mushroom and salmon fillings carry no meat at all). Ask after lard and stock when strict — the question is familiar and unembarrassing.
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Kazimierz is Krakow's second soul: King Casimir's independent town (1335) that became Polish Jewry's heart for five centuries — seven historic synagogues (the Old Synagogue a museum, Remuh with its moving Renaissance cemetery), squares and markets kept as they were until the Nazi occupation annihilated its people — Spielberg immortalising the place by filming Schindler's List in its lanes. Today it is the city's most pulsing quarter: Plac Nowy square with its zapiekanka rotunda (the quarter's famous bread) and morning market, antique cafés against old walls, and kitchens of every cuisine in hidden courtyards — the complete Polish-bohemian mood. From it the Bernatka footbridge with its lovers and locks crosses to Podgórze, where Schindler's story unfolded — making the quarter its day's hinge: synagogues by morning, square lunch, the bridge to the factory by afternoon.
Renaissance stones as a survivors' mosaic wall.
The zapiekanka rotunda and morning market.
Lovers' locks toward Schindler's bank.
Kazimierz, 31-053 Krakow