Morosini's lions
The 1628 basin and its fifteen-kilometre aqueduct.
CC BY-SA 3.0 ยท Ariadni Siopi โ CC BY-SA 4.0 ยท Dkoukoul โ CC BY-SA 3.0 ยท babbelfisk โ CC BY-SA 3.0
Filo pie filled with semolina cream (or Cretan myzithra cheese), baked to order, squared, dusted with sugar and cinnamon โ a recipe that came with Asia Minor's refugees (1922) and became Heraklion's morning identity. Eaten hot on the spot with a small fork โ and a properly made Greek coffee.
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Lions Square has been Heraklion's navel since Venice: the Morosini fountain (1628), four lions bearing the basin โ its aqueduct hauled Juktas water fifteen kilometres to a thirst-besieged city, and it stayed the centre of everything four centuries on: every rendezvous is at the lions. Around it history serves coffee: the elegant Venetian Loggia (the nobles' club โ today's city hall and the island's finest civic building) steps away, St. Mark's basilica (1239) now a gallery, and 1866 Street โ the town's pulsing market of Cretan cheese, herbs and honey โ branching off. And the square's obligatory rite: bougatsa โ the hot cream or cheese pie dusted with sugar and cinnamon from its two century-rival bakeries โ Heraklion's official breakfast facing the lions.
The 1628 basin and its fifteen-kilometre aqueduct.
Venice's nobles' club โ the island's finest civic front.
Cretan cheese, herbs and honey as a street.
Lions Square, 71201 Heraklion