El Greco before Toledo โ as a Cretan.
Lourakis โ CC BY-SA 4.0 ยท Andrant83 โ CC BY-SA 4.0 ยท Dchatzo โ CC BY-SA 4.0 ยท C messier โ CC0
The Archaeological is obligation (the Minoan has no substitute) โ the Historical a firm recommendation for El Greco, Kazantzakis and the modern tale in ninety minutes โ the third (crafts) for surplus time. The winning equation: Archaeological + Historical = Heraklion understood.
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The Historical Museum takes the tale where the Archaeological leaves it: Crete from Byzantium to the twentieth century in a neoclassical seafront house โ holding what nowhere else on the island does: the only two El Grecos in his native Crete (View of Sinai and the Baptism) โ for the world's Domenikos Theotokopoulos was born here before Toledo. Its second treasure is Nikos Kazantzakis' room: desk, library and papers transplanted whole โ the visit that completes his grave on the walls โ plus the great model of Venetian Candia (1645) teaching the pre-siege city's shape, and the Battle of Crete halls (1941) of paratroopers and resistance arms. It is the essential after-Minoan for understanding the modern island โ ninety minutes on the seafront suffice, at a quarter of its big neighbour's crowds.
El Greco before Toledo โ as a Cretan.
The Venetian city of 1645, pre-siege, in relief.
Sofokli Venizelou 27, 71202 Heraklion