A space designed for the work
Timber ceiling, dim light and bare walls — nothing competes with the reliefs.
SchiDD — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Bgag — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Bgag — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Bgag — CC BY-SA 4.0
A small sixteenth-century fortified house on the coast west of Split, bought by the sculptor Ivan Meštrović, who turned its interior into a chapel to display his most important work. The work is the reason: a series of twenty-eight carved wooden reliefs depicting the life of Christ, which Meštrović cut over some forty years. The space around them was designed specifically — a timber ceiling, dim light and bare walls — so that nothing competes with the reliefs. Meštrović is among the major sculptors of the twentieth century; he studied alongside Rodin in Paris and his work is held by museums worldwide. He left Yugoslavia for the United States after the Second World War, but gave his works and houses in Croatia to the state before going. A practical point: this is a separate site from the better-known Meštrović Gallery, about a kilometre away. The ticket is usually shared between the two — ask about it, and do not miss the chapel thinking it is the gallery itself.
Timber ceiling, dim light and bare walls — nothing competes with the reliefs.
He gave his works and houses in Croatia to the state before leaving.
Many visit the gallery and overlook the chapel, which is the more powerful.
Meje district, west of Split
A Croatian sculptor (1883-1962) born to a poor family who herded sheep as a boy before learning to carve. He studied in Vienna then worked in Paris, where he met Rodin, who praised him. His work combines classical influence with a Dalmatian folk manner. His best-known pieces are the Gregory of Nin statue in Split and the two Indian figures in Chicago. He left for America in 1947 and taught at its universities, never returning.
Start with the Meštrović Gallery, the larger site, showing his sculpture and drawings in his former house and garden, then walk about a kilometre west along the coast to Kaštilac. The walk is fine and overlooks the sea. Allow two to three hours for both, and confirm your ticket covers them.
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