Grünewald's masterpiece, the reason Colmar is a pilgrimage — a force the eye keeps.
stefano Merli from legnano, italy — CC BY-SA 2.0 · Gzen92 — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Caillot, A.. Cartographe Musée d'Unterlinden (Colmar). Cartographe — Public domain · Public domain
It was painted for a monastic hospital treating victims of 'Saint Anthony's fire', whose limbs rotted — so Grünewald painted suffering as they knew it, unbeautified, then the promise beyond it in unbelievable colour. That hard honesty is why twentieth-century painters made pilgrimages to it.
A typical ninety minutes: half for the altarpiece and medieval rooms, half for cloister and a quick modern wing. It opens before the lanes fill — do it first and leave having won both.
The altarpiece is strong imagery that may disturb sensitive ones — judge your child. Cloister, modern wing and archaeology are safer and lighter. With very young ones, cap it at an hour.
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The Unterlinden lives in a thirteenth-century convent with a quiet cloister, joined by a modern extension to the old town baths through a gallery under the street — and it is one of France's most visited museums outside Paris, for one great reason. That reason is the Isenheim Altarpiece: an early sixteenth-century work by Matthias Grünewald, painted wings opening onto scenes of an emotional force European art had not seen before — it has marked painters for centuries since, and its hall alone justifies the trip to Colmar. Around the masterpiece is a rich collection: medieval and Renaissance art of the Rhine, a modern wing with Picasso, Monet and Léger, archaeology and Alsatian folk arts — a full multi-floor museum, not a single showpiece hall.
Grünewald's masterpiece, the reason Colmar is a pilgrimage — a force the eye keeps.
The convent's thirteenth-century cloister around a garden — calm before the storm.
Picasso and Monet in the converted town baths — the extension's surprise.
Place Unterlinden, 68000 Colmar