The İznik tiles
Some 80 floral and geometric patterns.
Dosseman — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Dosseman — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Dosseman — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Alvesgaspar — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Dosseman — CC BY-SA 4.0
The Rüstem Pasha Mosque is a small Ottoman mosque in the Tahtakale market lanes near the Spice Bazaar, counted among Istanbul's most beautiful for the İznik tiles covering most of its walls. Many people walk straight past it, since its entrance is a narrow stair climbing from the crowded market to a quiet terrace above the shops. Mimar Sinan designed it for the Grand Vizier Rüstem Pasha, husband of Mihrimah, daughter of Suleiman the Magnificent. Rüstem Pasha died in 1561 before it was built; Suleiman authorised the project in 1562, and research points to completion around 1563. A long restoration began in 2016, and the mosque returned to worshippers once this was complete, around 2020 to 2021. The building stands on a high terrace above vaulted shops whose rents funded the mosque, with an octagon set inside a rectangle under the dome. The tiles are what set it apart: about 2,300 pieces in some 80 patterns of flowers and geometry, covering the porch facade, mihrab, minbar and walls. Look for the tomato red near the qibla wall, an early use of this colour in İznik ware, and the panels under the porch. The mosque is 200 m from the Spice Bazaar and 400 m from both the Süleymaniye Mosque and Galata Bridge in a straight line. Keep shoulders and knees covered, women cover their hair, remove your shoes, and avoid prayer times and Friday midday. The stairs are narrow and tricky for anyone with limited mobility.
Some 80 floral and geometric patterns.
Panels at the entrance.
A calm courtyard above the market.
Hasırcılar Çarşısı, Tahtakale, near the Spice Bazaar, Fatih, Istanbul
Spice BazaarA seventeenth-century covered market at Eminönü near the waterfront, known in Tu2 minutes walk4.4
Süleymaniye MosqueA sixteenth-century mosque on a hill overlooking the Golden Horn, counted among 6 minutes walk4.8
Galata BridgeNobody crosses Galata Bridge because it is a bridge. They cross it because it is6 minutes walk4.5
Grand BazaarA covered market in the heart of historic Istanbul, among the oldest and largest10 minutes walk4.5
Camondo StairsA rich banker, so the story goes, built a staircase so his children could not tu10 minutes walk4.4Sinan usually let structure speak rather than decoration. Here tiles cover most surfaces, possibly at Rüstem Pasha's request to support court artists.
Yes. The restoration begun in 2016 is finished and it returned to worship around 2020 to 2021. Visitors can enter outside prayer times.