The plane shade
Two ancient rows over the walk.
Diego Delso — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Sharon Hahn Darlin — CC BY 2.0 · Suradnik13 — CC BY-SA 4.0 · Hijerovit — CC BY-SA 4.0
Zrinjevac, Strossmayer, Tomislav (with the yellow Art Pavilion before the station) — then the Botanical west and the academy squares up — an hour of palaces and green showing the whole Lower Town without one ordinary street. The station itself the elegant close: the 1892 hall where the Orient Express called.
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Zrinjevac is Zagreb's green salon: first garden of the Lenuci Horseshoe — seven green squares with which the engineer Lenuci drew the Lower Town (1880s) as a horseshoe embracing the centre: a planning stroke of genius that made Zagreb among Europe's greenest-hearted capitals. The park itself is the living nineteenth century: two rows of ancient planes shading the walk, a music pavilion (1891) with summer Sunday bands, the Mandel fountain and the weather column (1884) whose clock and barometer still work — Austro-Hungarian palaces walling it as galleries (the Academy, the Archaeological, the Crafts). Its seasons are city rites: the garden café and sun chairs in spring, the Sundays at Zrinjevac music evenings, and winter's Advent Zagreb turning it a light forest of stalls — the festival crowned Europe's best Christmas market three years running. From it the horseshoe walks to Tomislav square and the station: the green palace walk of half an hour.
Two ancient rows over the walk.
Clock and barometer working a century and a half.
Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog, 10000 Zagreb