The view from the tower
The whole Black Forest valley from above, running a long way on a clear day.
A.Savin — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Harke — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Fyrtaarn — CC BY-SA 3.0 de · Fyrtaarn — CC BY-SA 3.0 de
Hohenbaden Castle stands on a hill above Baden-Baden, an open ruin you can wander through freely. It was built in the twelfth century as the seat of the rulers of Baden. They left it in the fifteenth century for a newer palace in the town, and after a fire in 1599 it has been a ruin ever since. What makes it good is that it is not a managed museum: no ticket desk, no fixed route. You walk in, climb the stone stairs and move between walls open to the sky. From the top you look out over the whole Black Forest valley, and on clear days the view runs far out towards the plain. Entry is free. There is a restaurant inside the ruins with a terrace, which makes a pleasant lunch stop. You can drive up to a car park nearby, or walk from the town in about an hour on a rising path through the forest.
The whole Black Forest valley from above, running a long way on a clear day.
Rooms open to the sky with grass growing between the stones. You wander as you like, with no set route.
A restaurant with a terrace inside the ruins themselves. Lunch here with the view is worth booking for.
Altes Schloss 10, 76530 Baden-Baden
Battert RocksThe Battert is a natural rock wall on the hills above Baden-Baden, near the old 9 minutes walk4.9
Festspielhaus Baden-BadenThe Festspielhaus Baden-Baden is Germany's largest opera and concert house with 18 minutes walk4.5
Caracalla ThermeThe Caracalla Therme is a modern mineral bath in central Baden-Baden, using the 18 minutes walk4.2
Society of Friends of Young ArtThe Gesellschaft der Freunde junger Kunst is a small art institution founded in 19 minutes walk4.8
FriedrichsbadThe Friedrichsbad is Baden-Baden's most famous bath, opened in 1877 in a grand, 19 minutes walk4.3This is the old castle on the hill — a free, open ruin. The New Castle is down in the town, where the rulers moved after leaving this one; it is closed and not normally open to visitors. For ruins and a view, come here.
It is easy by car to a nearby car park, then a short walk. Walking up from town takes about an hour on a rising forest path — enjoyable if you like walking, tiring if you do not. Inside the castle there are plenty of stairs.
On a clear day, since the view is the main reason to come. Late afternoon is especially good. Avoid rain — the ruins are exposed and the stairs get slippery.