The carved grave stones
Families taking leave of their dead — Greek art at its tenderest.
George E. Koronaios — CC0 · Rakoon — CC0 · Rakoon — CC0 · Rakoon — CC0
**Ancient Athens's cemetery** and its potters' quarter — and the source of the word "ceramic" in the world's languages. This was the bank of the Eridanos river outside the city walls, and Athenians were buried here for centuries, among them those who fell in the city's wars. In this very place **Pericles** delivered his famous funeral oration in 431 BC for the dead of the first year of the Peloponnesian War — one of the most celebrated texts in political history. The site is crossed by the **Sacred Way** to Eleusis and by the **Dipylon Gate**, the largest gate of ancient Athens, from which the great procession set out for the Acropolis. What distinguishes a visit is that the site is **full of carved grave monuments** standing in place: bulls, men on horseback, and families taking leave of their dead in quiet, affecting scenes — the tenderest thing Greek art left behind. The small museum inside holds excavation finds: jars, vessels and the original sculptures, replaced outside by casts. ⚠ It is among the **quietest archaeological sites in Athens** — rarely crowded, with shade and tortoises wandering among the stones.
Families taking leave of their dead — Greek art at its tenderest.
Ancient Athens's largest gate and the start of the great procession.
Among Athens's calmest ancient sites — with tortoises and shade.
148 Ermou Street, 10553 Athens
Monastiraki Square & BazaarMonastiraki is people's Athens itself: the square where everything meets — the A6 minutes walk4.4
The Ancient Agora & Temple of HephaestusThe Agora is where democracy invented its daily life: Athens' public square wher6 minutes walk4.8
Tzistarakis MosqueIt stands directly on **Monastiraki Square**, and is among the clearest survival9 minutes walk4.5
Hadrian's LibraryIn the middle of **Monastiraki**, steps from the metro station and the flea mark9 minutes walk4.5
The Gate of Athena ArchegetisA marble gate of four Doric columns at the western entrance to the Roman Agora i9 minutes walk4.8Yes if you will visit **three sites or more**, which covers most visitors. Athens's combined archaeological ticket includes the **Acropolis and its south slope, the Ancient Agora, the Roman Agora, Hadrian's Library, Kerameikos, the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the Lyceum** at one price valid over several days, saving a meaningful amount against buying each separately. ⚠ It is sold at the window of any included site, and buying it at a **quieter site than the Acropolis** (Kerameikos, say) saves you the queue.
Because Athenian grave monuments are **the tenderest and most human thing Greek art left**. You will see no gods, heroes or victories here, but ordinary scenes of farewell carved with great skill: a mother reaching for her child, a couple clasping hands for the last time, a maid carrying her mistress's box. It is an entirely different face of the civilisation you know from the Acropolis temples. Add that the site is **quiet and shaded** and rarely crowded — a real gain in an Athens summer.