Fado's queen — forever the most flowered.
Carlos Luis M C da Cruz — Public domain · NorbertNagel — CC BY-SA 4.0 · NorbertNagel — CC BY-SA 4.0 · NorbertNagel — CC BY-SA 4.0
Lisbon's oldest market (recorded since the 13th century): stalls of everything — old azulejo, silver, brass, books, vinyl, household oddities — the name from historically dubious provenance. Haggle gently and come early for the real pieces: nine to ten is its gold — the Pantheon above as the noon rest.
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The Pantheon is Lisbon's white dome over Alfama: the church of Santa Engrácia whose building took 284 years (1682-1966) until Santa Engrácia's works became the Portuguese proverb for the never-finished — then consecrated as the nation's Pantheon. Inside is solemn coloured-marble baroque on a Greek-cross plan rare in Portugal — holding the tombs of Amália Rodrigues, queen of fado (always the most flowered), of presidents and writers, with symbolic cenotaphs for da Gama, Henry and Camões who lie at Jerónimos. The summit is the dome terrace: lift then stairs opening the widest eastern panorama — all Alfama and the river — and calmer than the castle's terraces by an obscene margin. Tuesdays and Saturdays the venerable Thieves' Market (Feira da Ladra) carpets its square: the perfect morning pair.
Fado's queen — forever the most flowered.
Alfama and river without the castle's crush.
Campo de Santa Clara, 1100-471 Lisbon